This rectangular embroidery sample has a repeating silk design of flowers and leaves on navy velvet dotted with minute blue-violet crosses. A border of pink and white flowers, like rounded tulips facing down, marches down the left edge. Leaning right, at the top, is a spray of drooping pale pink and rusty orange bell-shaped flowers, surrounded by sprigs of small blue flowers and long brown serrated leaves. Below, in the middle of the sample, a large rose blooms, with petals shaded in dusty pinks, oranges, and pale greens. A pink rosebud curves out to the right of the rose, with small blue flowers above. The pattern repeats below the rose, with another cluster of pink and orange bell-shaped flowers. The textile is surrounded by a cream-colored paper enclosure.

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Object Timeline

1932	We acquired this object.
2007	We photographed this object.
2012	We photographed this object.
2018	We photographed this object.
2019	We exhibited this object.
2024	You found it!

Embroidery Sample (France)

This is a Embroidery sample. It is dated 1780–95 and we acquired it in 1932. Its medium is silk, paper and its technique is embroidered on a cut and voided supplementary warp pile (velvet). It is a part of the Textiles department.

These embroidery samples haven been in their original paper enclosures for over 200 years, preserving their brilliant color and pristine condition. The samples likely represent designs for men’s coats although embroidery houses could produce designs on any fabric according to a client’s wishes. While consumers in Paris could visit the marchand-merciers (retailers) to see samples in person, these paper envelopes were highly portable, meaning selling agents could take orders from customers far removed from the city center. Paris was widely recognized as the capital of fashion, and this perception was due mainly to the large volume of high-quality textiles produced in Lyon specifically for the Paris trade. By the 18th century, the textile industry in Lyon employed thousands of men and women. Local government and business leaders recognized Lyon’s special place in the textile design and production—it was the first to introduce seasonal changes in silk design. With the goal of training the next generation of textile designers, in 1756 leaders proposed opening a free school for flower painting under the leadership of a flower specialist with some knowledge of fabric design. It was not until the end of the century that the school produced its finest graduate, the talented designer Jean François Bony (French, 1754–1825), whose influence here is evident.

It is credited Museum purchase from Au Panier Fleuri Fund.

Its dimensions are

H x W: 22 x 16.5 cm (8 11/16 x 6 1/2 in.)

Cite this object as

Embroidery Sample (France); silk, paper; H x W: 22 x 16.5 cm (8 11/16 x 6 1/2 in.); Museum purchase from Au Panier Fleuri Fund; 1932-1-29

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition Embroidered and Embellished.

Short URL http://cprhw.tt/o/2BZhM/
Accession Number 1932-1-29
Object ID 18338137