Called a sautoir, this necklace is longer than earlier ones to accommodate the flat front dresses of the 1920’s and 30’s. Each octagonal diamond setting surrounds a larger center stone. The octagons alternate with hollowed-out rectangular rock crystal. The clasp is an ovoid version of the octagons.

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Object Timeline

	We acquired this object.
1920	Work on this object began.
1925	Work on this object ended.
2017	We photographed this object. We exhibited this object.
2024	You found it!

Object ID #907214177

This is a sautoir.

This object is not part of the Cooper Hewitt's permanent collection. It was able to spend time at the museum on loan from Neil Lane Collection as part of The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

It is dated early 1920s. Its medium is diamonds, platinum, carved rock crystal.

This long necklace or sautoir represents a new jewelry form aimed at those wearing less structured undergarments and flat-front dresses that could accommodate jewels extending beyond the bodice. A sautoir could also be provocatively twirled and handled for a seductive look.

It is credited Neil Lane Collection.

A diamond link chain necklace with six, carved, deep green jade panels displayed on a black velvet bust. Four of the jade panels are rectangular and worn around the neck interlinked by the diamond chains. In the center is a small lonzenge shaped diamond from which the main pendant falls. The pendant is formed from a pyramidal shape encrusted with small baguette diamonds with another rectangular jade panel below, then the pyramidal diamond encrusted shape again, with a long oblong-shaped carved piece of jade attached below.

Pendant Necklace, 1920s
diamonds, carved jade, platinum.
Neil Lane Collection.
59.2016.19

This necklace, called a sautoir, is made of six rows of pearls, which lie flat on the skin and end below the throat. There are two diamond lozenges on this section, one on each side of the necklace and then a thin diamond-encrusted bar followed by a triangle-shaped set of diamonds. These are held in place by a small diamond-encrusted lozenge, essentially rectangular. Hanging from the lozenge are two short continuations of the pearls, although now of uneven length. The added segments each also have a thin diamond-encrusted bar followed by a triangle-shaped set of diamonds but these triangles are more squat. They are attached to what looks like a diamond Christmas wreath with a center diamond and then a small Christmas tree in diamonds. The ends of the sautoir each have a large pearl.

Object ID #907214243
platinum, pearls, diamonds.
Lent by Tiffany and Company, Archives, A2010.08.
62.2016.2

Brooch
diamonds, rubies, emeralds, onyx, and platinum.
Private Collection.
41.2016.8

Its dimensions are

Length: 13 in.

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

Short URL http://cprhw.tt/o/2oaHaK/
Accession Number 59.2016.6
Object ID 907214177