Large, whimsical, bow tie-shaped brooch in contrasting colors. A rectangular, blue lapis lazuli forms the center of a symmetrical pattern of pointed arches of green jade, semicircular and arc-shaped red coral, and a black onyx background. Fine lines of platinum-set pave’ diamonds outline the brooch and also the lapis and jade. The carved semiprecious stones have a shiny smooth surface but are opaque, which enhances the impression of bold color contrast. The jade and the onyx are finely paneled along lines that remind of the fabric folds and the curved shape of a bow tie.

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Object Timeline

	We acquired this object.
1925	Work on this object began.
2017	We photographed this object. We exhibited this object.
2024	You found it!

Brooch, 1925

This is a brooch.

This object is not part of the Cooper Hewitt's permanent collection. It was able to spend time at the museum on loan from Neil Lane Collection as part of The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

It is dated 1925. Its medium is diamonds, platinum, carved lapis, onyx, coral, jade.

Boucheron featured whimsical designs, such as this large bow tie–shaped brooch in contrasting colors, in its critically acclaimed display at the 1925 Paris Exposition.

It is credited Neil Lane Collection.

Vanity case. In the center sit two male-presenting figures on a blanket. Around them are four other male-presenting figures, and one female. In the top-left of the case is a tree with red pedals. At the top-right of the case appears to be the outside corner of a house.

Vanity Case, Persian Scene, 1926
polychrome, blue, and black enamel, onyx, gold, mirrored plate glass.
Lent by Private Collection.
13.2016.70

A brooch shaped as a bow. At center is a large diamond, surrounded by a square-shaped row of smaller diamonds. Behind this square is a large circle of diamonds. Extending on either side from the square -- overlaid on the circle -- are three rows of diamons. The overall shape resembles a bow or bow-tie.

Object ID #907130393
diamonds, platinum.
Private Collection.
41.2016.12

Bracelet
platinum, osmium, gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.
Lent by Siegelson, New York.
61.2016.1

Our curators have highlighted 3 objects that are related to this one.

A vanity case fabricated from green aventurine stone into a rectangular form with rounded corners in a horizontal orientation with sides and front edges created in black enamel with a narrow gold line bordering the aventurine. Black enamel is also used as a ground material for an ornate banner-like form with a straight faceted diamond edge that functions as the pole for the banner to hang. Straight side edges embellished with diamonds descend to the middle point of the front then descend to meet equally in the center almost to the edge into a wide angle, similar to the design of an envelope flap. To add to the banner-like idea are numerous triangular faceted diamond forms, seven on each side of the angle or flap, creating an interesting zigzag design against the black enamel. The content of the banner consists of a floral scene with luscious carvings of three red-orange coral poppy flowers cushioned in a bed of carved green jadeite leaves. Oval cabochon sapphires are clustered about in between the leaves. Accents of purple flat unfaceted amethysts are surrounding a round centered faceted diamond on each poppy and a short diamond clasp or thumbpiece in a short line occupies the central space on the opening side. This vanity case could fit into the palm of your hand and it would feel cold to the touch, as well as be heavy from the aventurine stone. The photograph captures the object displaying the front, left side and bottom with a cast shadow and reflection against a white surface and ground.

Vanity Case, Poppy, ca. 1928
aventurine, enamel, coral, amethyst, diamonds, jadeite, sapphires, yellow....
Lent by Private Collection.
13.2016.2

Vanity Case
lapis lazuli, enamel, diamonds, mirror, gold, platinum.
Lent by Private Collection.
13.2016.26

A geometric clock with a square, faceted aquamarine dial enclosing pointed platinum hands. The aquamarine is a clear, limpid light blue. Surrounding the dial are red-orange coral Roman numerals against a pale silver-grey platinum background. The sides of the clock are chevron-carved coral. The clock is connected to the base by a small pedestal, about the width of the large aquamarine, with rectangular faceted aquamarines in dark gold settings. The rectangular base is wider than the clock and about half its height; the top surface and narrow foot of the base are shiny platinum. The front is fluted coral, while the side is deep blue fluted lapis lazuli, flecked with gold. The complementary shades of blue and orange are bold and striking. The clock sits on a reflective white surface against a white background, slightly angled to our right.

Mystery Clock
coral, lapis lazuli, aquamarine, platinum, gold.
Lent by Private Collection.
13.2016.103

Its dimensions are

L x W: 12.7 × 5.1 cm (5 × 2 in.)

It has the following markings

Boucheron Paris

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

Short URL http://cprhw.tt/o/2oaHaz/
Accession Number 59.2016.2
Object ID 907214167