These two dress clips are pictured as one piece with a connecting silver bar in between two studded, identical dress clips. Studded with intricate, white diamonds, the pins are spade-like or leaf-like shapes with rectangular steps in the middle. The four-tiered pyramid steps start with two base rectangles with a space in between, three horizontally-stacking rectangles on top of those, and a small square beneath the main, vertical rectangle. Surrounding the central design are the bundled studs, comprising on the spade-like design, stacking like pyramids to the very top circle diamond. Flanking the centrally-stacked rectangles are two curving scroll shapes with small tiers touching the edges, created by the negative space of the smaller studs. At the very bottom of the spade are three overlapping triangles. The spades mirror each other but are connected by a small silver post between them.

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Object Timeline

	We acquired this object.
1927	Work on this object began.
2016	We photographed this object.
2017	We exhibited this object.
2024	You found it!

Object ID #907130399

This is a Pair of Dress Clips/Jabot Pin.

This object is not part of the Cooper Hewitt's permanent collection. It was able to spend time at the museum on loan from Anonymous as part of The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

It is dated 1927. Its medium is diamonds, platinum.

The stepped shapes of Mayan decoration and skyscraper design are given a Persian twist with pierced scrolls. With a post connecting them, they could be used either for a cape or dress or as a lapel pin.

It is credited Private Collection.

A pair of dress clips/brooch designed with repeated geometric symmetrical forms encrusted with diamonds, sapphires, and pearls set in platinum resembling the form of a shield. A large oval cabochon sapphire graces the center wrapped in a halo of diamonds. Faceted square-cut sapphires are centered and set in a row from the top of the dress clip to the cabochon surrounded by diamonds hugging the row on both sides. A symmetrical step design forms into a square at both sides enveloping a small square-cut sapphire. Several white round pearls with slight variation in color are evenly spaced and adorn the angled bottom edge in a stable setting. The dress clips enhance the neckline of a garment and would be placed at an angle on each side. The photograph captures the objects in a direct frontal view where the left clip is higher than the right one against a gray ground with reflected gradient light.

Object ID #907214203
diamonds, pearls, sapphires, platinum.
Neil Lane Collection.
59.2016.18a,b

This Cartier brooch has a curving square frame and diamond studded elements around the frame. The square frame itself is smooth with curved edges but sharp corners, and gives off a light blue shade. The square has a row of square studs with four circular studs lining the interior shape and adding intricate detail. The square's top edge has a three-rowed diamond band hugging around the top of the square. The bottom edge of the square has the same three-rowed diamond band with the only difference being the hanging, studded trapezoid below it. There are matching diamond studded elements hinged on either side by a wider band of diamond and black stone square studs. The shape's longest sides are the width of the square and look like triangles, but with elongated, squared-off parallel lines off the corners, extending the length of the triangle slightly. The triangle's centers have a large circular stone surrounded by smaller studs that are arranged to mirror the triangle shape. The triangle's angled sides are outlined with black rock embellishments, and meet to a circular diamond on the corner. The hanging studded diamond and black rock trapezoid is hinged to an upside-down trapezoid with edged curves. In the center of the upside-down trapezoid, the curves meet to three circular stones. The bottom most stone has a studded circle around it; hinged off the studded circle are three spherical black stones. The three black stones are stacked and are a petal-like studded base that holds the pearl at the bottom, prominent in size to the whole piece.

Object ID #1042155089
platinum, diamonds, cultured pearl, onyx, rock crystal.
Lent by Cartier Collection, Inv. CL 235 A24.
86.2016.9

A stunning, Art Deco pin with an ornametal, fan-shaped jabot motif on both ends of a platinum silver pin, displayed vertically. The smaller decorative element on the top is of a soft triangular shape filled with diamonds, punctuated with a horizontal onyx band. Below the triangle is a fan of kernel-shaped white quartz centered around a similarly shaped setting of two round-cut diamonds, surrounding a rectangular, emerald cut diamond. The larger, lower decorative element features an emerald cut diamond atop a column of parallel diamonds which widens to surround a pear-cut diamond near the bottom. Echoing the smaller element, a curved, horizontal onyx collar encircles the line of diamonds, from which elongated white quartz drapes fan downward, four on each side of the column. The piece is evocative of a small hat atop a graceful figure, wearing a sparkling jabot collar in a classic, yet brilliant, black and white.

Object ID #907214251
diamonds, platinum, rock crystal (quartz), chalcedony (onyx).
Lent by Tiffany and Company, Archives, A1999.28.
62.2016.4

Our curators have highlighted 2 objects that are related to this one.

A drawing of an ornate, red and gold Mayan-inspired stepped design for a bracket lighting fixture. The shape takes the form of an upward pointing arrow, with a triangle shape at the top made up of thirteen cream oblong shapes, elaborately decorated in gold geometric patterns, set against a striped ruby red panel. In the center of the triangle, where the stem extends downwards, is a gold rectangular shape with a face at the top wearing three gold feathers that spill out above the bottom line. Two of the oblong shapes, one in from each edge of the bottom line of the triangle, are further decorated with long gold scrolls that hang downwards. In the center of the triangle a long stem flows downwards, formed from three cream oblong shapes decorated in gold, and set against thicker ruby red paneling. The downward stem is crossed with two horizontal lines, one at the center and one at the bottom, formed from two and four cream oblong shapes decorated with gold. At the very bottom of the stem is a gold heraldic head, with ruby red feathered details. The fixture is set aginst a cream brick wall. A side view sketch and annotations in graphite can be found on the left and at the bottom.

Object ID #890290255
gouache on paper.
Smithsonian Libraries, Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Library.
43.2016.3

Diamond and platinum brooch. Shape is bowtie-like, with two arrows facing opposite directions. The two 'arrows' are connected by two small, rectangularly horiztonal diamond clasps. At the non-pointed side of each arrow, both top and bottom curve inward, almost like an Ionic column.

Object ID #907130387
platinum, diamonds.
Private Collection.
41.2016.9

Its dimensions are

L x W: 8.5 × 3.2 cm (3 5/16 × 1 1/4 in.)

It has the following markings

CARTIER 2818680

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

Short URL http://cprhw.tt/o/2oahgi/
Accession Number 41.2016.14a,b
Object ID 907130399