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Object Timeline

	We acquired this object.
1926	Work on this object began.
2017	We photographed this object. We photographed this object. We exhibited this object.
2024	You found it!

Scarab Belt Buckle

This is a Scarab Belt Buckle. It is dated 1926. Its medium is square-shaped diamonds, baguette-, brilliant-, round old- and single-cut diamonds, blue egyptian faience, cabochon sapphires, black enamel, gold, platinum.

In an attempt to produce the most authentic adaptations of ancient Egyptian jewelry, Cartier acquired actual fragments of archaic Egyptian faience to incorporate into its Egyptian revival works. This belt buckle owned by Linda (Mrs. Cole) Porter features a popular scarab motif. The Cole Porters spent a lot of time in Paris and the south of France, newly in fashion with both Americans and the British.

It is credited Lent by Cartier Collection, Inv. CL 341 A26.

A vanity case in the form of a small sarcophagus combining Egyptian style imagery with a raised and curved bone lid, a flat bottom and an ornate encasement fabricated from enamel paint, gold, cabochon or smoothly polished stones and carved and polished emeralds and sapphires, faceted diamonds, platinum and onyx. The case could easily fit into the palm of one’s hand. A line drawing of a young person facing left dressed in a long sheath with triangular hands is carved in the bone lid. A jewelled image that resembles the Pharaoh Tutankhamun rests on the left side of the case wearing a striped headdress known as a neme. The neme is encrusted with cabochon sapphire stones that appear to be calibrated to fit in between thin gold lines. The royal insignia of the goddess Wadjet sits on the top of the King’s neme in the form of a cobra for protection embellished with faceted diamonds. The Pharaoh's face is carved from a large translucent emerald with blue sapphire irises embedded in his eyes. His chin wears a fake beard formed into an onyx cylinder. The Pharaoh's body is portrayed as a white leopard encrusted with faceted diamonds and onyx stones with oversized carved emerald paws showing strength. Yellow-orange enamel paints the negative space with blue, green and white papyrus flowers adorning the side edges. Above the Pharaoh’s head the trim is encrusted with three sets of rounded emeralds in between faceted diamonds while a row of diamonds borders the bottom edge. The front of the vanity case displays part of the bone lid bordered with rounded emeralds in between faceted diamonds and a centered diamond thumb clasp with an onyx fluted strip below. The same yellow-orange enamel decorates the front of the case’s body with several blue, green, and white papyrus flowers evenly spaced. Gold-beaded flower buds standing erect are placed in the alternating negative space of the papyrus flowers. The photograph shows the case on an angle displaying the top, front and left side view known as an isometric view with the left side closer to the viewer against a white ground showing a cast shadow.

Object ID #1024497181
bone, enamel, gold, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, platinum, onyx.
Lent by Cartier Collection, Inv. VC 70 A25.
86.2016.2

Purse
glass beads, cotton, metal.
Gift of Harvey Smith.
1968-135-35

A bracelet combining Egyptian imagery in a symmetrical composition fabricated from faceted precious and smoothly polished semi-precious gemstones and gold also known as cabochon, set in platinum in a rectangular form with an open box clasp partially seen. The dominant central design shows two swans intertwined in a heart form encrusted in round diamonds and rows of mother-of-pearl representing feathers with beaks of onyx and a large round diamond atop, possibly representing the sun. An onyx scarab below traditionally representing renewal and rebirth in Egyptian symbolism spreads its decorative wings in a symmetrical circular design embellished with onyx for feather tips, two rows of turquoise, then sapphires meeting in the diamond encrusted center and appearing to be overlapped by the swans. Round diamonds surround the feathers with several thin diagonal dark lines and a curved partial circle emanating from the large diamond above the entwined swan’s heads. To the right and left are papyrus leaves formed like fans on an opposite diagonal orientation consisting of sapphires and gold stripes and sapphires on the leaf’s gently curved borders. Above, large areas of turquoise cabochons appear to be flowing in a diagonal orientation and are possibly reminiscent of the Nile River. Further to the left and right and at the bracelet’s ends are a symbol of an outline of an eye possibly representing a god enhanced with gems and a black pearl for the iris. A hook and flail are located below the eye crossed like an X consisting of sapphire and gold stripes traditionally representing a symbol for the Pharaoh of Egypt. The bracelet could comfortably fit into one’s hand, it would probably feel cold to the touch and the texture would be bumpy from the cabochon stones. The photograph captures the object against a light gray ground with a cast shadow.

Object ID #907130389
diamonds, turquoise, sapphires, mother-of-pearl, onyx, black pearls, smoky....
Private Collection.
41.2016.11

Our curators have highlighted 6 objects that are related to this one. Here are three of them, selected at random:

Brooch
yellow and white diamonds, platinum, cabochon emeralds.
Neil Lane Collection.
59.2016.12

An openwork platinum brooch consisting of a large rounded triangular aquamarine stone set against swags and blossoms of carved moonstone on the sides, scalloped volutes of inset diamonds along the top and bottom, and cabochon sapphire accents. The luxurious piece has a round, floral shape with a design reminscent of sea shells and highlighted with swirling black enamel accents. The design is angled towards the viewer's right with placement of the aquamarine resembling a tilted heart. The small sapphires punctuate the center of the four round mollusk designs and as well, the left and right centerline of the piece.

Object ID #907214197
diamonds, aquamarine, platinum, carved moonstone, black enamel and cabochon....
Neil Lane Collection.
59.2016.15

Egyptian-themed bracelet. Almost entirely set in round diamonds, there are periodic rows of channel-set rectangular sapphires. The scene on the front of the bracelet, set in sapphires, rubies and emeralds, is of two Egyptian figures. One is kneeling and is giving or receiving something from a standing figure.

Egyptian Bracelet
diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and platinum.
Private Collection.
41.2016.1

Its dimensions are

H x W x D: 3.8 × 12.8 × 2.1 cm (1 1/2 × 5 1/16 × 13/16 in.)

We have 1 media file that features Scarab Belt Buckle.

"What Is This Thing Called Love?" James P. Johnson (1930)

This Scarab brooch was owned by Linda Porter, whose husband Cole Porter was a prolific composer from New York City. During the 1920s, Porter’s uncommon talents as both composer and writer set him...

https://archive.org/details/JamesP.JohnsonWhatIsThisThingCalledLove1930

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s.

Short URL http://cprhw.tt/o/2ywPjx/
Accession Number 86.2016.3
Object ID 1024497183